Let’s talk about Törggelen

Törggelen is a mouthful – both its pronunciation and its celebration.

This much anticipated South Tyrolean autumn tradition brings people together over new wine and seasonal eats against a backdrop of fall foliage. It’s the epitome of cosiness, hospitality and shared happiness – an unmissable experience!

Often referred to as South Tyrol’s fifth season, Törggelen gets its name from the Latin word “torquere”, meaning “to wind” or “to twist”, which refers to the grape pressing that starts the wine-making process. Running from October to mid-November, Törggelen often involves a picturesque hike in the Eisacktal or Etschtal valleys combined with a communal meal in a family-run farmhouse wine tavern called a Buschenschank. If there’s enough space and the weather is nice, it’s held outdoors; otherwise, it moves inside to a Stube.

This deep-rooted custom is all about sipping the year’s young wine alongside dishes like barley soup, Knödel bread dumplings, salt pork, ribs, various sausages, sauerkraut, Tirtlan (fried pastries with a spinach and curd filling), Schlutzkrapfen (spinach-filled pasta), roasted chestnuts and Bauernkrapfen (a type of flat fried pastry with various fillings).

After you’ve had more than your share of good food, and your pants couldn’t get any tighter, there’s somehow still room for a bowl of blackened chestnuts to be shelled and consumed.

And no Törggelen experience would be complete without the host offering a small glass of homemade schnapps, a perfect finish to the festivities.

Did you know?

Schlutzkrapfen

The name Schlutzkrapfen has an interesting origin: “Schluz” comes from an old South Tyrolean dialect term meaning to slide or slip. One taste of these spinach-stuffed delights, with their irresistible browned butter sauce, will make it clear why it’s nearly impossible to eat them without a little slipping and sliding. Schlutzkrapfen are a plateful of South Tyrol – with parmesan, chives and happiness sprinkled on top.

The Stube

The walls have eyes, and the furnishings talk. At the heart of the South Tyrolean home, you’ll find the Stube, a room whose wood-panelled walls have witnessed a lot. But it’s not just the walls; in a quiet corner, a crucifix keeps silent vigil over the room. The furnishings speak of heritage and artistry: corner benches and creaky floors, wooden tables surrounded by chairs with heart-shaped cutouts. A stove claims the best seat in the house.

The Stube also occupies a central place in mountain huts and taverns. There, it serves as a spot to dine and socialise, drawing in visitors with the promise of a hearty meal.

In the Stube, time moves at its own pace. It… slows… down…

And now it’s time for some Törggelen tips!

#1 Pair it with a hike

Incorporate a hike along the Chestnut Trail (Keschtnweg) into your Törggelen experience. Spanning 90 kilometres, the Chestnut Trail weaves through South Tyrol, linking villages, vineyards and chestnut groves. It is divided into shorter sections that offer epic views of the autumn landscape, scattered with ancient castles and traditional farmhouses. The trail sections vary in difficulty, so choose a route that matches your fitness level. Remember to wear comfortable walking shoes and bring layers. It is fall, after all!

#2 Choose an authentic Buschenschank

In keeping with tradition, the real Törggelen experience takes place at Buschenschänke (farmhouse wine taverns) nestled within the vineyards of the Etschtal and Eisacktal valleys. Each Buschenschank serves its own wine. Typically, they are family-run and only open during the Törggelen season. The name is said to come from the old tradition of hanging an arrangement of twigs called a Buschen outside to signal that the tavern is open for the season.

#3 Come hungry

Törggelen menus feature a variety of traditional South Tyrolean dishes. The portions are usually generous, designed to be shared and enjoyed slowly. Approach the meal with a hearty appetite and an open mind, ready to sample new flavours and dishes.

#4 Book in advance

Given the tradition’s popularity among locals and tourists, it can be difficult to secure a spot at a Buschenschank, especially on weekends. Plan ahead and reserve a table to ensure you don’t miss out on this seasonal delight.

Last but not least, a diary entry: Törggelen and a Trostburg Castle visit

That time when Tresl showed us her castle

15 October 2023

Today, we explored Trostburg Castle, a majestic structure perched atop a hill in Waidbruck, 23 kilometres from Bozen. I was joined by Andrea, a friend from my previous job, my husband, his sister and their cousin. Our gracious host was Andrea’s aunt, Tresl, a long-time resident of this old castle.

Passing through the massive, iron-studded wooden gate, we stepped onto the castle grounds and were warmly greeted by Tresl, who led us into her modest kitchen on the castle’s ground floor. The low-ceilinged space, framed by thick stone walls, was warmed by an old wood-burning stove in the corner. Tresl poured hot coffee from a big moka pot into dainty saucers, and we chatted as we sipped, settling in for a truly unique experience.

Tresl’s knowledge of Trostburg is encyclopedic. The castle, which dates back to the 12th century, has housed various illustrious residents, including the famous medieval poet Oswald von Wolkenstein. Now owned by the Südtiroler Burgeninstitut, Trostburg Castle thrives under Tresl’s devoted stewardship. Having moved here with her parents at the tender age of two, Tresl, now a proud octogenarian, continues to manage the property and conduct tours.

We joined one such tour. Tresl’s slight frame guided us up steep staircases and down narrow passageways to marvel at the castle’s architectural and historical treasures. We were particularly captivated by the vaulted parlour and the ornately decorated chapel, which features a unique window that once allowed ill parishioners to attend sermons from an adjacent room. The wood-clad Renaissance hall was another highlight. Among the castle’s prized possessions is an ancient wine press, one of the largest of its kind in South Tyrol. Tresl’s passion for the castle was evident as she eagerly answered questions, sharing intricate details about the place she calls home.

Although we combined our visit with a hike to Pedratsch, a traditional farmhouse tavern, for a Törggelen lunch, the castle alone offers sufficient reason to embark on the 15-minute uphill journey by foot.

Useful information: Trostburg Castle is open from Maundy Thursday (the Thursday before Easter) until 31 October. The castle can only be visited through guided tours, which are offered in German and Italian. English-language tours can be arranged in advance by contacting the Südtiroler Burgeninstitut (South Tyrolean Castle Insitute) at info@burgeninstitut.com or by calling +39 0471 982255.